Chumbe Island; Tanzania

Chumbe Island Coral Park

The majority of the island is forested, and knitted with curious twisting nature trails that lead past the haunts of rare and endangered coconut crabs and a host of doves, rare roseate terns and other birds. The paths emerge on prickly coral cliffs with clear and peaceful views over the ocean. Chumbe Island is open all year round, and despite its proximity to Zanzibar Island it receives significantly less rainfall.

Migrating humpback whales pass westwards in October/ November, and dolphins occasionally pass throughout the year.

In the centre a historic old gas-powered lighthouse built by the British in 1904 still stands tall, commanding superb views of the island and Zanzibar town if the precarious climb to the top can be endured. Beside the visitors centre a hundred-year old mosque in a quiet state of dilapidation is still used by the staff and rangers for prayers.

There are five rangers on the island, all former fishermen who once would have contributed to the demise of marine life that they now work to protect and teach their old colleagues to preserve. Teaching was the original purpose of the marine park when it was established by sheer grit and determination of Dr Sybille Riedmiller in 1991 for the purpose of educating local children and fishermen.

It has only since become an eco-resort as a means of preserving the integrity of her lease and proving that the park would prove an investment in terms of tourist facilities. So while the schoolchildren still make day trips to the island, and young Muslim girls are provided a rare opportunity to swim, the island has been transformed to cater to tourists with some commendable style. Guests also get to enjoy the fun of stress-free snorkelling with innovative teaching aids, such as the impressively named 'Floating Information Module'; a wide inflatable ring with illustrated colour plates for underwater identification.

Lovingly tended and beautifully designed, the eco-lodge is centred around a dining room and education centre created from a lofty makuti thatch and yet strongly reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House (although slightly smaller). This area was built on the foundations of the old light keepers house, an old Zanzibari who tended the lighthouse for 30 years and has now retired to live with his family.

Double storey beach bandas for guests are each individual and all adhere to the ecologically friendly premise. Each uses only rainwater stored in huge tanks beneath the floor, and all water waste is channelled into filter systems and recycled. Composting toilets ensure that no sewage is directed into the sea, and electricity and hot water are all solar powered. The rooms are all coconut leaf thatch on bamboo and mangrove poles with just a smooth plaster base in the lower level living area decorated with mosaics and coloured designs. The overall effect gives a delightfully virtuous sensation of non-impact barefoot luxury, which can be enjoyed from the perspective of hammock or carved wooden sofa until the gong sounds for a fine supper spread of deliciously prepared Arabic, Indian and African dishes.
Chumbe Island Coral Park can be visited as a day trip from Zanzibar Island, inclusive of transfers and lunch, bookable through Mbweni Ruins Hotel, but it is worth staying overnight if at all possible.

Chumbe – Tanzania Odyssey View